The Datejust was introduced in 1945 as the first self-winding wristwatch with a date that changes automatically at midnight in a window on the dial. Since then Rolex has made it in more sizes, metals, bezels, dials and bracelets than any other model, which is both its great strength and the reason buyers get overwhelmed.
It is also the most widely owned Rolex in our inventory, so we see every combination. Here is how to narrow it down in five decisions.
Decision 1: which size is right?
| Size | Current references | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| 28 mm | 279171, 279173, 279174 | Smaller wrists, classic ladies’ proportions |
| 31 mm | 278271, 278273, 278274 | The modern ladies’ and unisex size |
| 36 mm | 126200, 126231, 126233, 126234 | The classic Datejust size for any wrist |
| 41 mm | 126300, 126331, 126333, 126334 | Modern, sportier presence |
The 36 mm Datejust has been the standard size for most of the model’s history, and it wears larger than the number suggests because the dial is open and the bezel is thin. The Datejust 41 arrived in 2016 and suits wrists above about 6.75 inches or anyone used to a Submariner-sized watch. Our Rolex size guide explains how to measure your wrist and compare lug-to-lug lengths.
Decision 2: fluted or smooth bezel?
- Fluted bezels are the Datejust signature. On modern watches they are always precious metal: white gold on the steel “white Rolesor” models (126334, 126234), yellow or Everose gold on two-tone models. They catch the light and make the watch dressier.
- Smooth bezels are steel on steel models (126300, 126200) and look cleaner and more understated.
- Gem-set bezels exist from the factory on some references. Aftermarket diamond bezels are common on older watches and should always be disclosed.
Decision 3: which metal?
Steel is the most versatile. White Rolesor, steel with a white gold bezel, looks almost the same and costs a little more. Yellow Rolesor and Everose Rolesor pair steel with gold on the bezel, crown and center bracelet links, which is what most people mean by “two-tone”. Full gold Datejusts exist in smaller sizes. For the trade-offs, including weight, scratches and value, read steel vs gold Rolex.
Decision 4: Jubilee or Oyster bracelet?
The Jubilee, a five-piece link bracelet, was designed for the Datejust in 1945 and is the dressier, more comfortable choice. The Oyster bracelet is sportier and gives the Datejust 41 in particular a more athletic look. Both have a concealed clasp on many current Datejusts. This is purely taste, and our bracelet guide has side-by-side details.
Decision 5: which dial?
Datejust dials are where personalities come through: black, blue, silver and white for classic looks; the slate grey dial with green Roman numerals nicknamed “Wimbledon”; mint green, fluted-motif and palm dials on newer models; and diamond-set hour markers. Blue and Wimbledon dials often carry premiums. Original factory diamond dials should be listed as such; aftermarket diamond dials are a different, lower-value product.
Which Datejust references are the best value?
The 126334 and 126234 are the modern white Rolesor Datejusts, with the calibre 3235 and about 70 hours of power reserve. They are the easiest recommendation and very liquid. See every 126334 in stock and our 126334 reference guide.
The 116234 is the previous 36 mm white Rolesor Datejust, made from the mid-2000s to 2018 with the calibre 3135. It looks very close to the current model and is often considerably less expensive, making it one of the best value Rolex watches available.
The 126200 and 126300 with smooth steel bezels are the most affordable current-generation Datejusts.
Vintage references like the 1601 and 16014 give you a classic Datejust with acrylic crystal and plenty of character; see our vintage Rolex guide.
How do the Datejust movements differ?
Movement generation is one of the clearest dividing lines in Datejust pricing, and it is worth knowing which one you are buying:
- Calibre 3235 (current 126xxx and 126xxx references): introduced in 2015, it has Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, a blue Parachrom hairspring and about 70 hours of power reserve. Take the watch off on Friday evening and it is still running on Monday morning.
- Calibre 3135 (116xxx references such as the 116234 and 116200): the long-running workhorse, with about 48 hours of reserve. It is robust, widely serviced and well understood by watchmakers.
- Calibre 3035 and earlier (five-digit references such as the 16234 and 16014): these have a quickset date and sapphire crystal on later examples; older four-digit references like the 1601 have acrylic crystals and no quickset.
- Calibre 2236 (current 28 and 31 mm models): Rolex’s smaller movement with a silicon Syloxi hairspring.
For everyday wear, every one of these is a good movement. What matters more is how recently it was serviced. Our Rolex movements guide covers each calibre in more depth.
How do Datejust prices compare across generations?
Very roughly, from most to least accessible in steel and white Rolesor: vintage four-digit models and five-digit references with sapphire crystals, then the 116xxx generation, then the current 126xxx references. Two-tone and precious-metal versions sit above steel in each generation, and diamond dials and bezels add further.
The practical takeaway is that the Datejust offers a genuine Rolex at many price points. If budget is your first filter, start from the Datejust page sorted by price, pick the size you want, and compare the two or three references that remain. Our table at the end of this guide shows current asking prices for the most popular references.
What should you check on a pre-owned Datejust?
- The date change. It should snap over cleanly at midnight, not drag through the evening. Modern calibres have an instant date change.
- Bracelet stretch. Older Jubilee bracelets stretch readily; a tight bracelet is worth having.
- Fluted bezel wear. The gold flutes show knocks and polishing. Soft, rounded flutes mean heavy polishing.
- Dial originality. Refinished and aftermarket dials are common on older Datejusts. Printing should be crisp and correct for the reference.
Frequently asked questions
What size Datejust should I buy?
Most wrists suit the 36 mm Datejust, which wears larger than its diameter. Choose 41 mm if you prefer a modern, sporty presence or have a wrist above about 6.75 inches, and 31 mm or 28 mm for a smaller, more classic fit.
Is the Datejust a good first Rolex?
Yes. It is the most versatile Rolex, equally at home with a suit or a T-shirt, and the wide choice of references means there is one for nearly every budget. The older 116234 is an especially good-value starting point.
What is the difference between the 126334 and 126300?
Both are 41 mm Datejusts with the calibre 3235. The 126334 has a fluted white gold bezel; the 126300 has a smooth steel bezel and usually costs less.
Do Datejust prices go up or down?
Like all watches, Datejust prices move with the market. They are generally more stable than the steel sports models, which rise and fall more sharply, and they remain easy to resell.
